Sunday, December 6, 2009


“The magic of travel is that you leave your home secure in your own knowledge and identity, but as you travel, the world in all its richness intervenes. You meet people you could not invent; you see scenes you could not imagine. Your own world, which was so large as to consume your whole life, becomes smaller and smaller until it is only one tiny dot in space and time. You return a different person. Many people don’t want to be travelers. They would rather be tourists, flitting over the surface of other people’s lives while never really leaving their own. They try to bring the world with them wherever they go, or try to recreate the world they left. They do not want to risk the security of their own understanding and see how small and limited their experiences really are. If we don’t offer ourselves to the world, our sense dull. Out world becomes small, and we lose our sense of wonder. Our eyes don’t lift to the horizon; we don’t hear the sounds around us. The edge is off our experience and we pass our days in a routine that is both comfortable and limiting. We wake up one day and find that we have lost our dreams in order to protect our days. Travel, no matter how humble, will etch new elements into your character. You will know the cutting moments of life where fear meets adventure and loneliness meets exhilaration. You will know what it means to push forward when you want to turn back. And when you have tragedies or great changes in your life, you will understand that there are a thousand, a million ways to live, and that your life will go on to something new and different and every bit as worthy as the life you are leaving behind.” –Unknown

I hate to start with a cliché, but it is impossible to express in words what these six weeks in Niger have meant to me. After having been in country for just a few days, we were assigned to host families in local villages, and sent off to learn both a language – either Zarma or Hausa – and the Nigerien culture. I was able to spend two and a half weeks living with my Zarma family, and it gave me a whole new appreciation for people who have learned second languages through practical experiences. Nothing is more frustrating than not being able to express yourself, especially when you’re all on your own. My host family was great – I had four younger siblings, one of which I’m convinced was my guardian angel, as he appeared out of thin air whenever I was lost.
In our third week, I had the brilliant plan to ride bikes into the main village where about 25 other trainees were living and see how they were doing. My five Zarma cohorts and I rode over, had breakfast and lunch and read in the Peace Corps garden while waiting for the weather to cool enough to bike the 11km home. When we went to leave, however, we found that due to a “situation” we had to go up to the training site and stay the night. As news trickled in, we learned that there was an attempted kidnapping of American Embassy workers in the Tahoua region, and that we would all have to stay on site while the situation was assessed. Eventually, as intelligence was gathered and PC Washington weighed in, the decision was made to remove our entire training group and relocate us to Madagascar in December. It was not an easy decision for our country director to make, and she has shed many tears over the PCVs and trainees that have to leave.
For our part, we were 37 people stuck in a small training compound for three weeks – reality TV show, anyone? Luckily, the fact that we all chose to say “yes, I would like to serve in the poorest country in the world, where you bathe from a bucket, use a hole in the ground as a toilet, and sleep under the stars for two years” means that we all have at least something in common, and being here has made us ridiculously close and strong – we will not need team building exercises in Madagascar! Sadly, being on site with our amazing training staff has given us more time to learn about Niger, and grow close to a people and a culture that we will have to leave behind. I’m not trying to sugarcoat the country – of course there are bad people, and lazy people, and all of the things that you find all over the world that exist in Niger. It’s the amazingly motivated people; the farmers who work sunup to sundown to grow food in nutrient-deprived soil, the women who pound the grain, draw the water from wells 30 meters deep, care for their multitudes of children and still have time to ask you questions so you can learn the language that stay with you.

New address:
Chantel Welch
Corps de la Paix
BP 12091
Post Zoom Ankorondrano
101 Antananrivo
Madagascar

xoxo chan

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

A quick hello from Niamey! I spent the last few days with a Peace Corps Volunteer at her village. She has an amazing site, and gets to work with ICRISAT (International Crop Research Institute for the Semi-Arid Tropics), so we went and grafted Pomme de Sahel trees and got to see all the work they are doing to improve crops in Africa.
Thanks for all the bday wishes! I had a great day, we packed up a picnic lunch and walked 7km down to the Niger River and ate under some huge old mango trees. It's surreal to see so much green, when the villages that we've been staying in are so dry.
Well, off to eat lunch and then back to my village, so no internet access for a while. Sorry this blog is a bit sub-par today, I stil need to organize my thoughts before I can really write about what has been going on. Africa is beautiful, hot, dusty, everything I thought it would be and nothing that I thought it would be. I have seen amazing sunsets, and goats strapped to the top of bush taxis. Live goats. I'm learning Zarma, which is something that I never thought I would say. I love it. I'll try to answer everyone's emails when I'm back and have more time. Love to all! chan

Sunday, October 18, 2009

dun dun dunnnnnn



It's here! Time to finish packing, try to snag a few hours sleep and trek over to Philadelphia for Tuesday's training.




I can't help but laugh every time I remember talking to my friend Laura and her husband Mark at the NOLS sale last spring. At the time, I thought that I was headed to South America for the Peace Corps, and Mark made the comment "As long as you don't end up in the middle of the desert somewhere, like Chad." We all chuckled and I tucked that moment away in my memory, not to be remembered until several months later when I tore open my Peace Corps invite and saw "Niger" on the cover. For those of you (like me) who are not too familiar with Western African geography... Niger borders Chad. Ladies and Gentlemen, I give you irony.




I started to come down with a case of the nerves this afternoon - what if I can't learn the languages?? What if I forget how to grow things?? What if Air France loses all of my luggage?? Luckily, my friend Ahnie called to save the day. Ahnie and her husband Jeff were Peace Corps volunteers in South Africa a few years back, and she had an answer for every worry. To top it off, she told me that she and Jeff have been researching plane tickets and are planning to come visit next summer; I'm looking forward to it already.




Well, off to pack. I won't have internet access for at least a couple of months, so I wish you all a Happy Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas, birthday, and whatever else is coming up - oh let's say in the next year. Don't blame me, blame the African postal system.


hugs, chan




p.s. one last photo from Hatcher Pass this morning - some crazy looking ice crystals!












Monday, October 5, 2009

time to start packing, starting tomorrow




Two weeks left in Alaska! The snow is slowly creeping down the mountains and I'm hoping to get out on skis or my snowboard before I leave... because I'm pretty sure I won't be using either in Africa.


To update those whom I haven't been in touch with lately (sorry!) I'm headed to Niger, Western Africa for the next couple of years to do agriculture programs with the Peace Corps. In a nutshell, the Sahara Desert has been creeping outward for the last 5000 years and farmers in the surrounding areas are having problems with raising their crops in the ensuing droughts. On top of that add in a lack of roads and transportation, the wrong kinds of foreign aid (donations from overseas that crash the local markets), and subsidies to western farmers that prevent African farmers from competing internationally, and you can imagine the struggles that these farmers face daily. Our job will be to do whatever we can to work on maximizing rainfall (storage) and to find new crops and/or strains of current crops that produce higher yields. I'll be in a small village somewhere (200-1000 people) and all I know is that I won't have electricity or running water but on the plus side I do get my own mosquito net, so I've got that going for me.. which is nice.
So, I know that you're all dying to know where you can send me awesome packages full of photos and soccer updates and non-meltey candies. My address will be:


Chantel Welch
Corps de la Paix
B.P. 10537
Niamey, Niger
Africa

hugs, chan